Climbing performance self assessment test.

Beastmaker

We have sourced a really good self assessment test to work out your key strengths and weaknesses (check out Eric J. Hörst's book 'Training for Climbing'). It's good to take stock especially if your performance has plateaued. 

0= almost always 1= often 2= about half the time 3= occasionally
4= seldom 5=never

1. My footwork (use of feet) deteriorates during the hardest part of the climb.
0 1 2 3 4 5

2. My forearms balloon and my grip begins to fail even on routes that are easy for me.
0 1 2 3 4 5

3. On hard sequences, I have difficulty stepping onto critical footholds.
0 1 2 3 4 5

4. I get anxious and tight as I head into the crux sequence.
0 1 2 3 4 5

5. My biceps (upper arms) pump out before my forearms.
0 1 2 3 4 5

6. I have difficulty hanging onto small, necessary-to-use holds.
0 1 2 3 4 5

7. I mess up sequences I have wired and know by heart.
0 1 2 3 4 5

8. I stall at the start of crux sequences. I end up readjusting and shaking out too much so I fall.
0 1 2 3 4 5

9. I climb three or four days in a row.
0 1 2 3 4 5

10. My leg starts to shake unintentionally.
0 1 2 3 4 5

11. I pump out on overhanging climbs no matter how big the holds are.
0 1 2 3 4 5

12. I get out of breath when I climb.
0 1 2 3 4 5

13. I make excuses for why I might fall on a route before I even try it.
0 1 2 3 4 5

14. I miss hidden holds on routes.
0 1 2 3 4 5

15. I have difficulty hanging onto small sloping holds or pockets.
0 1 2 3 4 5

16. I grab a hold of other holds instead of risking a fall on a hard move.
0 1 2 3 4 5

17. On a typical climb, I feel like much of my weight is on my arms.
0 1 2 3 4 5

18. I get very sore the day after climbing.
0 1 2 3 4 5

19. I have difficulty visualising myself successfully climbing the route before I leave the ground.
0 1 2 3 4 5

20. I cannot reach key holds on difficult routes.
0 1 2 3 4 5

21. On overhanging routes and roofs, I have difficulty keeping my feet from cutting loose and swinging out.
0 1 2 3 4 5

22. While climbing, I get distracted by activity on the ground/ I think about whether my belayer is paying attention.
0 1 2 3 4 5

23. I have difficulty reading sequences.
0 1 2 3 4 5

24. I get flash pump on the first climb of the day.
0 1 2 3 4 5

25. I have more difficulty climbing when people are watching.
0 1 2 3 4 5

26. My feet unexpectedly pop off holds.
0 1 2 3 4 5

27. I experience elbow pain when I climb on a regular basis.
0 1 2 3 4 5

28. I have difficulty committing myself to a move and pushing myself to the limit.
0 1 2 3 4 5

29. I have difficulty finding shakeout positions that are a positive effect on my climbing.
0 1 2 3 4 5

30. My first attempt on a hard route is usually better than the second or third.
0 1 2 3 4 5

Each of the questions comes under ‘mental’, ‘technique and tactics’ or ‘physical’.
Mental: 1,4,7,10,13,16,19,22,25 & 28.

Technique and tactics: 2,5,8,11,14,17,20,23,26 & 29.
Physical: 3,6,9,12,15,18,21,24,27 & 30.

Add up each category to attain three totals. If all three areas are within five points of each other you are a well-balanced climber but, more commonly, you will have one that is much lower scoring than the others. This is your major weakness. Review each question of the self-assessment test and mark a star next to those on which you scored a three or less. 

Each of these low scoring questions identifies a specific element of your climbing performance that is holding you back. Focus on your most dramatic weaknesses (5-6 lowest scoring items). Work out an action plan then once you begin to see improvement shift your focus onto other low scoring areas of the assessment. Re-take the test if needs be.